Sukhothai
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Sukhothai General Information
Found in the 13th century, Sukhothai (literally means Dawn of Happiness) was the first truly independent Thai Kingdom, which enjoyed a golden age under King Ramkhamhaeng, credited with creating the Thai alphabet. The superb temples and monuments of this great city have been lovingly restored in Sukhothai Historical Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and a must-see for all travellers.
Sukhothai is located on the lower edge of the northern region, 427 kilometres north of Bangkok or some 298 kilometres south of Chiang Mai. The province covers some 6,596 square kilometres and is divided into 9 Amphoes: Muang Sukhothai, Ban Dan Lan Hoi, Khiri Mat, Kong Krailat, Sawankhalok, Si Nakhon, Si Samrong, Si Satchanalai and Thung Saliam.
HISTORICAL BACKGROUND
Sukhothai was the first kingdom of the Thais in this peninsula. Two princes-Pho Khun Pha Muang and Pho Khun Bang Klang Hao combined their forces and fought the Khmers who commanded an extensive empire throughout this part of the world.
They drove the Khmers out of Sukhothai, a major frontier post of the Khmer Empire, and established it as their capital in 1238. Pho Khun Bang Klang Hao, urged by the people to be king, was enthroned with the royal title of Pho Khun Si Indrathit.
King Si Indrathit had two sons-Pho Khun Ban Mueang and Pho Khun Ramkhamhaeng. After his death, Pho Khun Ban Mueang succeeded him. His brother, Pho Khun Ramkhamhaeng, ascended the throne in 1278 and reigned for forty years. He was Thailand's first great king.
One of Thailand's finest warriors, King Ramkhamhaeng made Sukhothai a powerful and extensive kingdom which included many parts of what are today neighbouring countries. A number of ancient cities paid him tribute.
King Ramkhamhaeng opened direct political relations with China and made two trips to China - the first in 1282 to visit Emperor Kublai Khan and the second in 1300 after Kublai Khans death.
From the second visit, he brought back Chinese artisans who taught the Thais the art of pottery. Today, the old Sangkhalok Potteries are eagerly sought by collectors.
A major achievement of King Ramkhamhaeng was the revision of various forms of Khmer alphabets into a system suitable for the writing of Thai words. The alphabet that he invented in 1283 was essentially the same as that in use today.
During his reign, there was prosperity and happiness. There was water in the paddy-fields and fish in the water.
A stone inscription reads in part, This Muang Sukhothai is good. In the water there are fish; in the field there is rice. The ruler does not levy a tax on the people who travel along the road together, leading their oxen on the way to trade and riding their horses on the way to sell. Whoever wants to trade in elephants, so trades. Whoever wants to trade in horses, so trades. Whoever wants to trade in silver and gold, so trades.
King Ramkhamhaeng also promoted religion and culture, and through his efforts, Buddhism progressed among the people. Inspirational faith gave birth to classic forms of Thai religious arts. Images of the Lord Buddha sculptured during the Sukhothai Era are cultural treasures which impart a feeling of peace and serenity.
A total of eight kings ruled Sukhothai. The gradual decline of Sukhothai occurred during the reigns of the last two kings. The end of this first Thai kingdom occurred in 1365 when it became a vassal state of Ayutthaya, a young and rising power to the south. Ayutthaya became the capital of Thailand before Thon Buri and Bangkok.
Sukhothai Festival Information
- Loi Krathong and Candle Festival
Sukhothais Loi Krathong is held annually on the full moon night of the 12th lunar month at the Sukhothai Historical Park. Activities during the festival include krathong floating, a fireworks display, and local games and performances amid the glamorous atmosphere of the Sukhothai Historical Park.
- Si Satchanalai Ordination Celebration
Called by Thais as Buat Chang Hat Siao, this local event is held annually during 7-8 April at Ban Hat Siao, Amphoe Si Satchanalai. It features a spectacular procession of ordination candidates in colourful costumes on the backs of some 20-30 decorated elephants. The ceremony has been arranged by Thai Phuan, the citizens of Ban Hat Siao for more than 150 years.
- Songkran Festival
This is an annual celebration of the Thai New Year, 13 April. The festival was mentioned in the famous stone inscription believed to be inscribed during the reign of King Ramkhamhaeng the Great of the Sukhothai Kingdom.
Sukhothai Attactions Information
- Phra Mae Ya Shrine
This shrine is situated in front of the City Hall and is highly respected by Sukhothai residents. It houses an idol of Phra Mae Ya, a stone figure with a white face and long hair, and dressed as an ancient queen. The idol is about 1 metre high and is supposed to have been built during King Ramkhamhaeng's reign as a dedication to his late mother Nang Sueang.
- Sangkhalok Museum
Sangkhalok is the name of ceramic wares produced in the old city of Sukhothai. The museum displays the collection of Sangkhalok and ceramic wares produced some 700 years ago in the Lanna Kingdom (now the northern region of Thailand). The museum is just one kilometre from town on the road to Phitsanulok.
- Sukhothai Historical Park
This is located 12 kilometres from town on the Sukhothai-Tak Highway and can be reached by local bus or hired motored tricycle from town. The park is open daily from 8.30 a.m.- 4.30 p.m. Admission is 40 baht. The park also offers tram services as well as bicycles for rent for exploring around its large area. The Tourist Service Centre in the park (Tel: 0 5569 7527, 0 5569 7310) provides information, as well as displays models of historical buildings and structures in old Sukhothai.
Ruins of the royal palaces, Buddhist temples, the city gates, walls, moats, dams, ditches, ponds, canals, and the water dyke control system, which was the magical and spiritual centre of the kingdom, are now preserved and have been restored by the Fine Arts Department with the cooperation of UNESCO, not only with a view of fostering Thailand's national identity but of safeguarding a fine example of mankinds cultural heritage.
- The Royal Palace and Wat Mahathat
The royal palace lies in the centre of the town and covers an area of 160,000 square metres. This area is surrounded by a moat and contains two main compounds; the royal building and the sanctuary in the palace. In the royal compound exist the ruins of the royal building called Noen Phrasat.
Here, the famous stone inscription of King Ramkhamhaeng was found by King Mongkut (Rama IV) in the 19th century together with a piece of the stone throne called Manangkhasila-at. King Ramhamhaeng set up the throne in the midst of a sugar-palm grove where, at his request, a monk preached on Buddhist Sabbath days and the King conducted the affairs of state on other days. This throne was later installed in Bangkoks Temple of the Emerald Buddha.
A sanctuary lying to the west behind the Royal Palace compound is Wat Mahathat. It is Sukhothais largest temple with a customary main chedi in lotus-bud shape and a ruined viharn. At the base of the chedi stands Buddhist disciples in adoration, and on the pedestal are seated Buddha images. In front of this reliquary is a large viharn formerly containing a remarkable seated bronze Buddha image of the Sukhothai style, which was cast and installed by King Lithai of Sukhothai in 1362. At the end of the 18th century, the image was removed to the Viharn Luang of Wat Suthat in Bangkok by the order of King Rama I and has since been named Phra Si Sakaya Muni. In front of the large viharn is another smaller viharn which was probably built during the Ayutthaya period. Its main Buddha image (8 metres high) was installed inside a separate building. In front of the southern image, a piece of sculpture called Khom Dam Din (a Khmer who came by way of walking underground) was found, and is now kept in the Mae Ya Shrine near the Sukhothai City Hall. On the south stands a pedestal of a large chedi built up in steps, the lowest platform is adorned with beautiful stucco figures of demons, elephants and lions with angles riding on their backs. Mural painting adorns this chedi.
- King Ramkhamhaeng Monument
Situated to the north of Wat Mahathat, the bronze statue of King Ramkhamhaeng sits on a throne with bas-relief at the base depicting the Kings life.
- Wat Si Sawai
Situated among magnificent scenery southwest of Wat Mahathat is Wat Si Sawai. Three prangs (pagodas) are surrounded by a laterite wall. Inside the wall, the viharn in the west, built of laterite, is separated from the main prang which was constructed in the Lop Buri or Hindu-style, but the other also constructed beside the prangs are Buddhist viharns. The Crown Prince of that time who later become King Rama VI found a trace of the Hindu sculpture Sayomphu, the greatest Hindu God in this sanctuary. In his opinion, this ruin was once a Hindu shrine, but was later converted into a Buddhist monastery.
- Wat Chana Songkhram
Situated to the north of Wat Mahathat is Wat Chana Songkhram. Its main sanctuary is a round Singhalese-style chedi. In front of the chedi exists the base of a viharn and behind the former stands an ubosot. Bases of twelve small chedis are also visible. Near Charot Withithong Road is a strange chedi having three bases, one on top of the other.
- Wat Traphang Thong
Situated to the east of Wat Mahathat is Wat Traphang Thong. The monastery is located on an island in the middle of a large pond. A ruined laterite Singhalese-style chedi is on the island. In front of it, a new mondop contains the Lord Buddha's Footprint slab that was created by King Lithai in 1390 on Samanakut or Phra Bat Yai Hill. This footprint was removed to the new mondop some years ago. An annual fair to worship this sacred Lord Buddhas Footprint takes place at the same time as the Loi Krathong Festival.
- Wat Phra Phai Luang
This temple lies about 500 metres north of San Luang Gate (northern gate). This sanctuary, formerly a Khmer-Hindu shrine but later converted into a Buddhist monastery, is surrounded by a moat. It is second in importance to Wat Mahathat. Inside, there are three prangs like Wat Si Sawai, but the southern and the central ones have crumbled leaving only the northern one decorated with stucco figures. In front of these prangs are a viharn and a crumbled chedi; the later has a pedestal decorated with stucco seated Buddha images. A mondop contains Buddha images in four postures; sitting, reclining, standing, and walking. They are now all in ruins. A Sivalinga (Phallic emblem of Hindu gods) was unearthed in the compound of this sanctuary.
- Wat Si Chum
This lies about 1,500 metres north of Wat Mahathat and was originally surrounded by a moat. A square mondop which is the main sanctuary, contains a monumental stucco-over-brick Buddha image in the attitude of Subduing Mara called Phra Achana. This Buddha measures 11.30 metres from knee to knee.
The mondop is 32 metres square and 15 metres high, and the walls are 3 metres thick. There is a passageway in the left inner wall itself which leads to the above crossbeam. On the ceiling of the passageway are more than fifty engraved slate slabs illustrating Jataka scenes.
- Phra-Ruang Dam
This earthwork dam was formed to hold back water between Phra Bat Yai and Kio-Ai-Ma Hills and restored by Thailand's Irrigation Department. Water from the dam will be used as a reserve whenever the water level in other reservoirs goes down. This dam is referred to in the Sukhothai inscription.
- Sawankhaworanayok National Museum
It is 38 kilometres from Sukhothai and 2 kilometres further on a road on the left. The museum was open in 1984, and features sculptural art from various periods; the most interesting being Sangkhalok crockery from the Sukhothai era and Sangkhlalok items retrieved from sunken vessels in the Gulf of Thailand.
- Si Satchanalai Historical Park
Si Satchanalai Historical Park is located on the bank of the Yom River. It is open daily between 8.30 a.m.-4.30 p.m. Admission is 40 baht.
The ancient town, formerly called Muang Chaliang, was named Si Satchanalai during the reign of Phra Ruang when a new administrative centre was established to replace Chaliang. Ruins of 134 monuments have been discovered within the park:
Phra Si Rattana Mahathat Temple also called Phra Borommathat Muang Chaliang Temple or Phra Prang Temple, is situated 3 kilometres to the south of ancient Si Satchanalais wall. An immense laterite prang on a square base marks the centre of the temple. A steep staircase in front of the huge prang leads to a room where a reliquary is enshrined.
Khao Phanom Phloeng Temple is a hilltop temple within the old town of Si Satchanalai. A laterite chedi in the centre, a large viharn or image hall in front, and a small sanctuary behind all lie in ruins. Some laterite pillars and a damaged Buddhas' image constructed of laterite slabs and coated with mortar are seen.
Khao Suwan Khiri Temple is also a hilltop temple situated 200 metres away from Phanom Phloeng Hill. A huge bell-shaped chedi on a 5-tiered base marks the centre of the temple. Ruins of a viharn and chedi, and fragments of huge stucco figures lie scattered on the ground. The similarity between some figures here and those at Wat Chang Lom in the old town of Sukhothai leads to the belief that it was King Ramkhamhaeng the Great of the Sukhothai Kingdom who had this temple constructed.
Chang Lom Temple is an important monument within the old town of Si Satchanalai. A huge bell-shaped chedi supported by 39 elephants, with 4 of them at 4 cardinal points elaborately decorated, marks the centre of the temple. Above the chedis base, there are niches enshrining images of the Buddha subduing Mara.
Chedi Chet Thaeo Temple is one of the most beautiful temples in Sukhothai Province. Chedis of different artistic styles and influence were built within the area of this temple. Mural paintings, seriously damaged, are still to be seen in some chedis.
Suan Kaeo Utthayan Yai Temple is located near Wat Chedi Chet Thaeo with only a dirt road in between. A large image hall lies in remains within this temple. The monastery is also called Wat Kao Hong or the 9 roomed temple.
Nang Phaya Temple is famous for its delicate stucco reliefs on the remains of the northwestern wall of the 7 roomed viharn or image hall. The pillars of this viharn are decorated with unglazed ceramic designs. The central laterite chedi is surrounded by lampposts and accessible by a set of narrow stairs.
Suan Kaeo Utthayan Noi Temple is the only temple within the old town of Si Satchanalai with a brick building in front. The ruins of this temple consist of a whole laterite image hall with a laterite roof.
- Si Satchanalai National Park
This was proclaimed a national park on 8 May, 1981. With a total area of 213 square kilometres in Amphoe Si Satchanalai and Amphoe Thung Saliam of Sukhothai Province, Si Satchanalai National Park offers trekking routes through waterfalls and caves. The parks geography is mainly high, undulating mountains covered by a tropical jungle. Interesting tourist spots in the park include Tat Dao and Tat Duean Waterfalls, about 3 kilometres and 500 metres from the park headquarters, respectively. The park also has a hot spring, two caves called Tham Khangkhao (bats cave), and Tham Thara Wasan.
Si Satchanalai National Park is about 100 kilometres from Sukhothai via route no. 1113 and route no. 1294 and can be reached by local bus from Amphur Si Satchanalai. The bus leaves for the park once a day and costs 30 baht. It takes 50 minutes for the journey. The park admission is 200 baht per person. There is accommodation for tourists. For reservations, please contact the National Park Section, Royal Forestry Department at Tel: 0 2562 0760 or 0 5561 9214-5 www.dnp.go.th.
**Information Reference : tourismthailand.org
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